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Waterpeople Podcast

surf stories + ocean adventures

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Tag: finless surfing

Posted on April 21, 2020July 11, 2020

Derek Hynd: Conducting Chaos

Derek, one of the brightest minds in the surfing constellation, Constantine Bay, 1979/80 via Constantinesurf      In episode 6, Derek sings the praises of gannets, far feels theory and…

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Maybe you’ve wondered what it feels like to sing in an arena with thousands of people screaming your name? But have you ever thought about the morning after? Finding stillness amongst the chaos with @ziggyalberts @solibailey sat down with Dave during an exploratory jaunt in the Pacific to talk about the highs and lows of his surfing life — from chasing the tour, to paddling out and not wanting to be there, his resurgence free surfing with Maps to Nowhere, and the life-threatening neck injury that nearly deleted surfing from his life.
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All imagery courtesy Nathan Oldfield
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